Tuesday, August 18, 2015

OF MEN AND SUITS...

FOREWORD...

A little earlier last week i was in the hunt for new threads, gotta admit i have a liking nowadays for the suit and tie. so i check out my dealer, he's based somewhere in the city. Fortunately i land my eyes on a piece just perfect for me, but quite fancy the collection this guy has. So i make a mental note on the next time I'm there of what I'll take and how ill have it.
Its then i noticed that there are quite a variation of suits but my size, tight fitting and loose fit. I went with tight fitting my friends.
So this gave me an idea of what i can write about next, the types of suites around and how you go selecting the ones that fit your size and taste.

BACKGROUND CHECK

The suit is a traditional form of men's formal clothes in the Western world. For some four hundred years, suits of matching coat, trousers, and waistcoat have been in and out of fashion. The modern lounge suit's derivation is visible in the outline of the brightly coloured, elaborately crafted royal court dress of the 17th century (suit, wig, knee breeches), which was shed because of the French Revolution. This evolution is seen more recently in British tailoring's use of steam and padding in moulding woolen cloth, the rise and fall in popularity of the necktie, and the gradual disuse of waistcoats and hats in the last fifty years.
The modern lounge suit appeared in the late 19th century, but traces its origins to the simplified, sartorial standard of dress established by the English king Charles II in the 17th century. In 1666, the restored monarch, Charles II, per the example of King Louis XIV's court at Versailles, decreed that in the English Court men would wear a long coat, a waistcoat (then called "petticoat"), a cravat(a precursor of the necktie), a wig, and knee breeches (trousers), and a hat.


 EVOLUTION OF THE SUIT

So that's how it goes gents. Now lets see the types of suites around.


TYPES OF SUITES

Single Breasted

A single-breasted jacket has only one set of buttons and button holes, which do not overlap. It can be two buttoned, generally accepted, or three buttoned. The one button version is generally for dinner jackets. The single-breasted jacket may be worn with a waistcoat, a close fitting waist length garment, without sleeves or collar. Waistcoat may be made of the same fabric of the suit. It has a ‘V’ shaped neck and the back is of silk. Also called, the British style suit, it generally gives a casual look as compared to the double breasted.

Double Breasted

The double-breasted is the one which has two front overlapping across the body. It is traditionally ventless i.e., having no flaps at the back. It generally has four or six button options. It is also known as the Italian style suit and generally worn by tall men for an elegant look. It is more of a conservative and a neat tailoring piece.

Lounge Suits

Lounge suits, a man’s formal suit for ordinary day wear. As meant for day work so the fit is comfortable. It can be worn with or without a tie. Light to medium colors are preferred. Single breasted is preferred with two buttons. Three buttons give it a more formal look. Lately, linen suits are a big draw in this category.

Dinner Suits

Dinner suits, basic black tie suit. Generally in dark colors and traditional fit. Lately, slim fit is preferred.

Business Suits

Next in line are the business suits, very formal cut and stylish in sober colors and sharp fits. Different from lounge, as they are more conservative and formal, common being the pinstripe suit in navy or black. Double and single breasted, both go well.

Mandarin Suits

Mandarin suit is an oriental inclusion into this list. With a Nehru collar or the band collar, is generally worn with full button on. Cut very closely to the body, gives a very lean and sharp look. These are very elegant for an evening out.

Wedding Suits

Wedding suits for the ceremonial occasions are catching on fast. They vary in cuts and silhouettes. Fabrics are velveteen, jacquard and other sheen or a luxury fabric meant for luxury wear. The trend is currently of single to two buttons with slim fit. Experiment with lapels and pockets.

Zoot Suits

Worth mentioning in the article are the zoot suits or the Jazz age suits. Originated by the African Americans – long coats, high waisted, big lapels, should think before trying it out. Not everyone can fit this bill.

Tuxedos

And yes, the tuxedos are ultra formal and the ultimate in the suit line. It can be stylized for the ceremonial wear. It is mostly seen being worn by Hollywood stars walking the Oscar red carpet in the traditional black tuxedo. Has widely caught up in the eastern part also. Can be worn with a cummerbund, same color or of some dark royal tone in satin preferably.

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